Discovering Sardinia for the first time:

Off-road adventures, hidden beaches and the power of nature.

They say that travelling in a group of thirteen is a logistical challenge, but when the destination is Sardinia and the team has one shared goal – to get the absolute most out of this trip – it makes for an action film scenario. Our trip wasn’t just about lazing around on sun loungers. We conquered the island, from the highest peaks of Supramonte, through mysterious underground passages, right down to beaches accessible only from the sea. Take a look at what our Sardinian invasion was like!

Sardinia is an island full of contrasts. On the one hand, it’s wild, inaccessible and rugged; on the other, it’s incredibly beautiful and relaxing. We decided to explore every one of these facets.

In the heart of Barbagia: off-roading, shepherds and walls that tell a story.

If you want to discover the real, authentic Sardinia, you have to head for the mountains. We did it in style. We hopped into off-road jeeps and set off on a proper off-road adventure through the wilderness. Dust, adrenaline and incredible views led us straight to Camping Ristorante Supramonte near Orgosolo.

It was there, far from civilisation, that we conquered the summit of San Giovanni (1,316 metres above sea level), which offers a breathtaking view. The culinary reward for our efforts was a genuine shepherd’s feast. The harsh mountain climate, incredible hospitality and traditionally roasted suckling pig are an experience that cannot be described in travel brochures – you simply had to feel it and taste it!

Our mountain itinerary wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to the famous Orgosolo. This is a town with a rebellious spirit, renowned for its more than 150 incredible murals. The walls of the houses there form an open-air art gallery, telling stories of politics, history and the daily struggles of shepherds. A stroll through these narrow streets is a history lesson that leaves a lasting impression.

The mysteries of the rocks and the underground: Gairo, Ulassai and the ‘Blood Coast’.

Sardinia also hides its treasures underground and in the dark recesses of history. Gairo – the famous ghost town – provided us with incredible thrills. Abandoned several decades ago following catastrophic landslides, today it haunts visitors with its empty windows and slowly overgrown streets. A stroll through these ruins, with their incredible view of the valley, is pure, fascinating melancholy.

A little further on, in the village of Ulassai, we descended underground into the spectacular Grotta Su Marmuri. It is one of the most impressive caves in Europe. Gigantic chambers, several dozen metres high, massive stalactites resembling organ pipes and an all-encompassing chill create a scene straight out of a fantasy novel. Nature has been sculpting this place for millions of years and has certainly done a cracking job here!

From the underground, we headed to the coast towards Arbatax to see a geological marvel – the Rocce Rosse. Imagine jagged, blood-red porphyry rocks rising straight out of the turquoise sea, criss-crossed by dark, contrasting veins of black marble. The sight in the sunlight is simply mesmerising.

A paradise accessible only by sea: a boat trip along the Baunei coast.

There are places in Sardinia that have no road access, and the only way to reach them is by boat (or via a gruelling, hours-long trek). We hired some gear and set off to explore the coves of the Baunei region. What we saw there was absolutely world-class:

1. Cala Mariolu – a beach strewn with fine, white pebbles resembling snowflakes, lapped by water so vividly blue that it hurts the eyes.
2. Cala Biriala – a magical place where a dense, green pine forest descends from steep cliffs almost right down to the emerald water.
3. Cala dei Gabbiani – a wild, somewhat lesser-known but equally spectacular ‘seagull cove’, where crystal-clear water meets vertical walls of white rock.

Oases of tranquillity: Biderrosa, flamingos and crystal-clear coves.

After a few days of intensive exploration, we found ourselves in absolute paradise – Spiaggia Biderrosa. It is a strictly protected nature reserve with limited access. Golden sand, shallow, crystal-clear water and eucalyptus forests create an oasis you’ll never want to leave.

Whilst in the south, we paid a visit to the Molentargius Saline Nature Park. This famous kingdom of pink flamingos can be explored on foot, by hire bike, or even by a special eco-friendly bus (running at set times). The sight of hundreds of these beautiful birds wading in the former brine pools right next to the bustling city is a truly unique experience.

The highlight of our exploration of the south was a visit to Grotta Is Zuddas – a cave famous for some of the world’s rarest, eccentric aragonite crystals, which seem to completely defy gravity, growing in every possible direction like frozen flowers. Once we emerged from the underground, all that awaited us was some well-deserved, blissful relaxation on the stunning Chia beach, famous for its huge dunes of golden sand and crystal-clear water.

Our group of thirteen successfully carried out the grand ‘Sardinia’ operation. We went our separate ways to pursue our own plans, bonded over huge platters of local cured meats (not to mention the legendary Culurgiones!) and soaked up the island to the full. It was lively, it was delicious, and it was both extreme and relaxing at the same time. Our batteries are recharged. We did it perfectly!